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Eliseparts Gear Linkage Kit 1 |
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| Basics This kit has been put together with all the parts you will need to replace all the joints in the gear linkage, however, you will need some basic tools, and some method of *SAFELY* supporting the rear of the car, either using stands or ramps. You will need to spend some time working underneath the car, so please ensure that you can do this safely. |
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| 1. Raise the rear of the car so that
you can comfortably work underneath it, making sure that it is secure. 2. Remove rear under-tray. This has 5 bolts at the rear edge, 6 at the edge of the front sides (3 each side) and 4 in the middle. 3. Remove the two gear cable clips (shown right), being careful no to loose them as they spring out. 4. Push out the old rubber bushes from the ends of the gear cables, then, move the cable out of the way. |
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| 5. Remove Nyloc and Lock nut from
bell crank, (using 2x10mm spanners), and push the link clear from the
bracket. 6. Remove the bell-crank nuts (shown left), this is a Nyloc and half nut. When removed, the bell-crank should be slid off with the old joints attached. |
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| 7. Push out the old Nylon bushes from
the bell crank support bracket, (there are two of them, one from each
side). Clean up the bracket, and insert the new Nylatron bushes taking care not to damage them, and then smear with plenty of grease (supplied). |
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| 8. Remove the old rod ends from the
bell-crank, then dis-assemble them from each other. Make up the new rod
ends to mimic the old ones, setting them distance from the centres to
the same as the old ones (this should be 70mm). Then bolt one end back
to the bell-crank as shown. The end should be the bolt through the joint end, then a plain nut (tighten to the joint), a plain washer, then the bell-crank, another plain washer, and finally the Nyloc nut. Do not tighten the lock nuts between the joints yet, you will need to be able to adjust them latter. 9. Re-fit the bell-crank to it’s bracket (making sure the shaft is clean and lightly greased (using the supplied Molybdenum grease), replace the nut, tightening only by fingers until there is no slack on the pivot, but not enough to cause any friction, then tighten the lock-nut. 10. Bolt the other (lower) rod end to the gearbox selector bracket, using the bolt, the joint, the plain nut, the bracket, and finally the Nyloc nut. |
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| 11. Push the gear cable Nylatron
bushes over the cleaned up pivot points. Once the cable ends have been
greased, these can them be pushed over the Nylatron bush, followed by
the M8 washer and secured by the ‘R’ clip (as shown). NOTE: Please use the "R" clip as it was designed to be used IE Slide it forwards over the smallest part of the shaft, This way the clip will not be stressed beyond its design parameters. |
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12. Replace the cable clips. The
whole assembly should then look like this. |
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| All that needs to be done
now is to check that you can reach all the gears; this is best done with
an assistant. Whist watching the linkage get the assistant to select 2nd
Gear, and then 5th gear. If all is well, tighten up the lock-nuts
between the rod-ends, making sure that they can still articulate. If you can’t reach 2nd, then you need to shorten the distance between the rod-ends, if you can’t reach 5th, you will need to lengthen the link. To adjust the link, un-bolt the lower rod-end from the selector bracket, then turn clockwise (to shorten) or anti-clockwise (to lengthen), then re-fit. When you are completely satisfied you have correctly adjusted the joints, make sure they are all tight, and re-fit the under-tray and test drive! |
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